And conrad sciiutz



\ smvrlxa MACHINE. v

$ Patented Dec. 14, 1897.

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(No Model.) 4 sheetssheer 2.

'W.1H.HUGG 85.0. SGHTZ.

SEWING MACHINE.

" Witnesses. Inventors Attorney.

(No M9991.) 4 shets-sneet a.

W.- H. HGG 8v C. SCHTZ.

v .SEWING MACHINE. l 190,595,479. Patented Deo; 14,'1897.

uWltnesses.

@dw fr.

Attorney.

(No Model.) y 4 4 sheets-'sheen 4. W. H. HU'GG & C; ASCI-ITZ SEWING MACHINE No. 595,479. Patented Dec. 14, 1897.

V In'velntors4 www4/A "'Witnesses. `1

Attorney.

it is adapted for forming an overedge seam of To all whom, it may con/cern:

'UNITED STATES.

v PATENT @Ferca wiLLrAn H. nUGG, or PALMYRA, NEW JERSEY, AND CONRAD scnTZ, on

PHILADELPHIA SEWI'N e- PENNSYLVANIA.

M AC Hl N E.

SPECIFICATION forming part of -LetterslIPatent No. 595,479, dated December 14,1897.

Application filed September 16,1896. Serial No. 605,968. ,(No model.)

Be itknown that we, WILLIAM H. HUGG, Vof Palmyra, county of Burlington, State of New Jersey, and C oNnAD SCHTZ, of Phila# delphia,county7 of Philadelphia, State of Penn# sylvania, citizens of the United States, have linvented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification. n v

Our invention belongs to that class of sewinganachines known as "overseamers; and

, one or morethreads, as in binding theedge of a'fabric, uniting the edges of fabrics, stitchin g buttonholes, covering rings, and analogous uses.

The principal objects of our invention are,

rst, to provide a machine in which the thread is handled directly without transfer; second, to draw off o nly so much of the thread as is required to formthe stitch, and thus to avoid the use of a take-up device; third, to permit of the use of a single-strand thread, such as is used in weaving the fabric, for' forming the singlethread overseam, and foneither or both threads in forming the vdouble-thread overseam, thus avoiding the .harsh edge 4iinish""in,soft-knit garments-produced by the useof hard twistthre'adrequired for machines now in use;

fourthj, to avoid the use of a welt-guide by adapting the looper to control the edge of the fabricand-regnlate the length of the bight;

fifth, topprovide a machine of greater simplicity 'of construction and operation than has heretofore obtained, which is capable of attainingunlimited speed, whereby the defect of 10W speed of machines heretofore used is overcome, and, sixth, bythe peculiar shape and motion' of the looper to overcome the tendency to drop stitches and to improve or x facilitate the casting off of the loop, which are defect-sof machines heretofore used.

The' machine is provided with a reciprocatv ing needle and a peculiarly-formed curvepointed looper, which latteris caused to os-- cillate around the edge of the fabric i'n unison with the reciprocations of the needle therethrough, the looper describing in its -travel .more than half a'circle, catching the needlethread below the fabric and 'forming a loop thereof, which it carries over the edgev in the operation of carrying the looper-thread through this needle-loop and into position to the fabric. lThe looper-thread being caught by the descending needle, the looper recedes in unison therewith and drops f through or casts off the needle-thread loop whereby the stitch is formed. The point of the looper is inclined to the plane of its motion to faciliL tate catching the thread from the needle below the fabric and is directed or pointed to-l Ward the outside of the curve which itdescribes around the edge of the fabric, the said point forming an obtuse angle with the tion of the looper cause no more thread to to cover the edge of the fabric 'and leaves no more of its own thread engaged with the needle .than is required to form the purl, whereby the use of a take-up device is avoided andthe use of soft single-ply thread is made possible. The comparatively straight looper in receding Idrops out of theloop which it carries over the edgelof the `fabric without exerting any pull thereon, asa consequence of its peculiar shape and motion, thus avoid# ing dragging down the stitch-.7

The nature and characteristic features of our invention will be more fully understood from the following detailed description, taken in connection 'with the accompanying drawings, -of` Which- Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine embodying the main'features of our invention. Fig. 2 is a top or plan view of the same. Fig 3 is anl elevation of the left end of the machine. looper. Fig. 4 is ayiew of the link mechanism for operating the looper. Fig. 5 is a plan 'view of the throat-plate. Figs. G, 7, 8, 9, and. are views illustrating the relative positions ',of the needle and looper in forming the doublethread overseamg'and Figs. 11, 12,13, and 14 are views illustrating the relative positions of the needleand looper in forming the single-thread overseam.

Referring to the drawings, the frame 1 is provided with bearings 2 and 3, and the shaft 4 is journaled in these bearings, being driven by the belt-pulley 5.

looper-shank. The peculiar shape and nio-- be engaged by the descending needle above be drawn from `the needle than is required Fig. 3a is a perspective view of the IGC A bell-crank (l, jourualed on an arbor `7, and from which it readily slips as the matesupported by the frame, is connected with rial is advanced by the feed mechanism 23. and oscillated by the shaft l by means of the In forming the double-thread overseam the 7o pitman S, which has an eccentric connection needle-thread 41, f ed from a spool placed in 9 with the 'shaft and a ball-andsocket con- `any suitable position, is first carried by the nection l0 with the bell-crank. needle through the fabric -12 and the slot 38, The horizontal arm ll of the bell-crank is the needle and looper mechanism then occuconnected with and reciprocates the needlepying the position illustrated in Figs. l and '75 bar 12, an adjustable block 13, secured to 9. As the needle rises the' thread between 1o the needle-bar, being connected to the crankits eye and the fabric slackensaud the looperarm by the link 1l, which ispivoted to the point 43, passing to the right and close to block at and to the arm at 16. the rear of the needle,'catehes the thread and The needle-bar, reciprocating vertically in forms the loop 4l, which is carried around 8o the bearings 17 and 18, the presser-foot 19 the tongue 40 and the edge of the fabric i5 and bar 20, theelevating-lever 2l,the depressthrough the successive positions illustrated ing-spring 22, and the feed mechanism 23 all in Figs. '10, 7, and 6. As the looper rises in operate in the usual manner. unison with ,the Vascending needle it slips The vertical arm 2l of the bell-crank is con-- through the loop 44, Fig. 6, and draws down 85 nected with and oscillates the looper 25,whicl1 the part 45 of the looper-thread, which part 2o is secured to the link 26, for the upper end is caught by the needle as it descends close of the link 26 and an arm 27, pivoted to the tothe rear of the looper, as illustrated in Fig. frame at 2S, are pivoted together at 29, and 7. The looper descending with the needle the lower end of the link is pivotedl at 30 to readily draws out of the loopatl, as illustrated 9o the long arm of a lever 3l,which is fulerumed in Fig. 8, and the stitch is thus formed. It 25 in the bearing 32 aud has its short'arm conwill be observed that the needle-thread is neeted with the bell-crank by a link 33, piveaughtpositively bythe point of the advancoted at 3l and 35. ing looper and merely pushed to the edge of As the revolving shaft 1 reeiprocates the the fabric where, by reason of its positive enneedle SGthrough the described intermediate gagementwith the loop and as its shape and 3o mechanism it will also reciprocate the looper motion are such that its shank approximately 25 in unison therewith by means of the defollows the path described by its point close scribedlin'k mechanism andintermediate conaround the edge of the fabric, the looper nections, the looper being caused to describe shoots through the loop without drawing 1t rec a curve whose upper and lower limits `cross out, 'as illustrated in Fig. 6. v\Vhen the dev the needle in its vertical recip'c'atons. scending needle has caught thelooper-thread,

The looper25 is formed with a plain shank, thelooper recedes, and as itsshank follows and a point Al3,which lies on the convex side the path of least resistance to the loop surof the curve described by the looper in its rounding it and as its point forms an obtuse 105 movement, is inclined to the plane of the angle with the shank the needle-thread loop 4o loopers movement and forms an obtuse angle is shed vwithout pulling olf more than is rewith the looper-shauk,-as illustrated in Fig. quired to form the stitch.- It is evident that 3, the looper being provided with eyes 17 and the looper, which has been carried past the 4S, which receive the thread 46. 'point ofthe elevated needle only sufficiently 11o It will be observed that the action of the to permit the needle on descending to enlooper is positive and direct, for in the operagage the looper-th read, will on receding leave tions of seizing the thread, forming the loop only so muchof its thread as is required to and carrying it, the looper advances instead form the stitch. The successive stitches are of receding, as is usual,whch obviates a chief formed bya repetition of .this operation. In 1 15 defect of overseaming mechanisms now in forming the single-thread oversealnthe same 5o use,while the peculiarlink motion carries the mechanism is employed. It is found desirlooper through its several positions at such able, however, to form a notch 51 in the looper angles that it may be made comparatively at the base of the hook to'prevent'thc loop Silaigh' from slipping down on the looper-as is re- 12o The plain of the looper and the mechanism quired in forming the double-thread seam. connecting it with the bell-crank is inclined Referring to Figs. 1l, 12, 13, and 14, when to the vertical and to the line of action of the the needle has passed through the fabricand needle, 'as illustrated in Fig. 3, and consethe' throat-plate slot 3S and is rising the' quently the looper will pass infront of the looper 50, passingto the rear of the needle, 12; needle in the 'upper limits of its path and to engages the slackencd thread and forms the 6e the rear in the lower limits, or tothe right loop 52, .which is caught in the looper-notch and to the left, respectively, in the position .51, as illustrated in Figs. 13 and 14. As the of the mechanismshown in Fig. 3. needle rises the looper carries this loop vThe throat-plate 37 is provided with a slot around the tongue vel@ and the edge of the 13o 3S, through which the needle reciprocates, fabric from the posit-ion shown in Fig. 14 to and a slot 39, through 'which the looper recipthat shown in Fig. 11. The needle, now derocates, the two slots being separated-bye scending, passes close t0 the rear of the tongue 40, about which the stitch is formed looper and enters the loop 52, Fig. 12, which the descending looper casts off, the parts resuming theposition shown in Fig. 13, and the stitch being thus formed. As' the point of the looper travels in a path close to the Iedge of the f abric and substantially coincident lwith the position to be occupied by the loop,

merely pushing the loop into its desired position, where it is caught bythe descending needle, andon receding droppingout" of the loop, only so much of the thread is drawn off asis required to form the stitch. The successive stitches are formed by a repetition of this operation. As the path of the looper follows closely the line around the edge of the fabric occupied `by the loop, no more thread is drawn off than is required to form the stitch, which obviates the use of a take-up de'l vice. As the shape of the looper and its action are such that no take-up device is required, a single-strand thread may be employed in both the needle and the looper for both the single and double thread seam. The looperf shank, striking close to the 'throat-plate l tongue, guides the edge of the material and regulates t-he length of the bight, it being evident that its action will be to roll in any excess of material between the needle and to operate in unison, substantially as and for 4thepurposes specified.

the point which it strikes. As the loopis caught lpositively around the looper, which advances in carrying it around. the edge of.

path, a link to which said looper is attached,

an arm having one end pivoted to said link and the other end pivoted to a xed support, an oscillating lever fulcrumed in a fixed support and, pivoted to said link, a throat-plate, and mechanism connecting said needle and looper mechanism, whereby they are adapted 2. In a sewing-machine, in combination, a reciprocating needle, a throat-plate having a tongue, an oscillating curve-pointed threadcarrying looper, means to cause said looper to enter the thread-loop formed by said needle upon the under sideofsaid throat-plate and to,carry it to the edge of said plate, and passing farther thereinto to yield a loop of its own. thread to form a purl on the edge or border of the fabric, said means comprising Specified.

a linkl to which said looper is attached, an arm having one end lpivoted to said link and lthe other end pivoted to. a'iixed support, an

oscillating lever fulcrumed to a fixed support and pivoted to said link, and mechanism connecting said needle and looper, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

3. In a sewing-machine, a curve-pointed looper provided with two eyes, said looper oscillating in a curved path and having its point directed outwardly from said curved path, a link to which said looper is connected an arm having a movable connection with said link atvone end and with a fixed support at the other end, a lever having one of its ends connected with said link, and means for actuating said lever thereby causing said looper to oscillate, substantially as and for the purposes specied. 4

4. In a sewingfmachine, in combination, a revolving shaft, .a pitman c'onnected'with and oscillated by said shaft, a bell-crank connected with and oscillated by said pitman, a

needle connected with and oscillated by said bell-crank, a link, and a looper fixed thereon,

an arm having one end pivoted to said -link and the other end pivoted to a Xed support, a lever fulcrumed to a liXed support'and having one end pivoted to said link, and a second link connecting said fulcrumed lever with said bell-crank, substantially as and for the f purposes specified.

5. In a sewing-machine,'in combination, a

reciprocating needle, a throatplate, a looper and means to oscillate it in a curvedpath through'said throat-plate and around the edge'of the fabric, said looper comprising a plain shank and a point which is turned toward the outside of said `curved path'and forms an obtuse angle with said shank, and mechanism connecting said needle and looper, whereby they are operated in unison, as specified. l

6. In'a sewing-machine, in combination, a

reciprocating needle, a throat-plate, a looper and means to oscillate it in a curved path through said throat-plateand around the edge of the fabric, said looper comprising a plain shank and a point which is turned toward the outside of said curved path and forms an obtuse angle with said shank, said point being also inclined to the plain of said curve', and mechanism connecting said needle 'and looper, whereby they are operated lin unison, as

WM. H. 'HUGGL CONRAD SCHUTZ. Witnesses z THOMAS` S.' GATES,

CHARLEs N. BUTLER.

IOO

IIO 

